Namaste. My first evening in Delhi has been quiet, mainly because I seem to be the only person in the hotel awake all night. The dreaded jet lag. I cannot tolerate sleeping pills; I am wired backwards so drugs tend to have the opposite effect. The one time I took an Ambien, years ago, I bolted through the streets of London in a crazed mania for two and a half days.

I spend peaceful hours reading Wm. Dalrymple's fascinating, charming and idiosyncratic history of Delhi, City of Djinns, published in 1993. Dalrymple points out that ancient Delhi has a new population since 1947, when partition forced a massive migration of Hindu and Muslims. And things have changed radically again, in the last two decades. But Delhi is a palimpsest of civilizations laid down over the centuries; our globalized,neo-tech era is only the latest. For centuries, the city has moved forward looking longingly backwards.

Dalrymple describes a visit with the author of Twilight in Delhi, Ahmed Ali, in Karachi, where he lives in self-imposed exile. He is embittered, and cannot bear what has become of his beloved city. (As with all excellent books, Djinns has got me making lists of more books to read.) Ahmed Ali and an old friend of his talk about the transformations they have witnessed.

"The old men swam together through great oceans of nostalgia before finally coming ashore on a strand of melancholy."

Dalrymple quotes the poet Mir Taqi Mir, who captures the despair of loss:

"What matters it, O breeze,
If now has come the spring
When I have lost them both
The garden and my nest?"

The sun comes up in a moist, milky smog, against which the color of saris and flowers is vivid. Delhi is among the most polluted cities in the world. The smell and taste of soot from cars and trucks overwhelmed me as I left the airport, bringing back an acrid memory of the air in New York City in the sixties and seventies. I actually found myself thinking, thank goodness for the Clean Air Act. But there you have it. In the heated rhetoric against government regulations, Americans forget how fortunate we are to have protection against such massive pollution. My eyes do not stop burning.

I order a large pot of the masala chai to which I quickly become addicted, and with its spicy aroma wreathed about my head, read a front page story in The Times of India: "It's only going to get hotter, wetter: Scientists' Grim Forecast Means Crop Failures." Temperatures in india are "set to get higher--way higher than what the country has recorded in the past 130 days." In the same paper is a long article from Mumbai about the alarming incidence of gall bladder cancer among people living near the Ganga and its tributaries; the water and soil of sixty villages has been found to contain a high concentration of heavy metals.

Later in the morning my sister (who can take sleeping pills) and I set out with a lovely young woman, Himali (her name means Princess of the Mountain) to visit some small, neighborhood temples. Small children wander out into busy traffic to beg. Stray dogs trot along the road. Himali graduated from Middlebury College in Vermont a few years ago, and worked in New York as a freelance writer before moving back home to Delhi; she now writes about art and culture for various local publications.

We enter a Sikh temple, but there is no retreat from technology. Even here, the computer flashes words and notes. As we sit down, Himali tells us we have wandered into a wedding ceremony. "It is an arranged wedding, I can tell. The bride and groom have barely looked at one another." I ask if this is unusual. "Not at all--many of my friends, if they have not found a suitable man by the time they are 28, they will ask their parents to arrange something for them. But we have the right to refuse."

The temple fills with guests in brightly colored, sparkling saris. The groom lifts the sword of the Sikhs,  a long scarf is draped around his neck and the neck of his bride; they walk around the central dias, he leads, she follows, head down. I begin to think of our Match.com culture as a simple technological twist on arranged marriages (with right of refusal).

The morning's paper, hindustantimes, leads with the headline: "Soon, Helmets Must for Women Bikers, Pillion Riders". This regulation has been made over protests by the Sikh community, as men are not allowed to wear anything over their turbans, and women must keep their heads covered at all times.

Then we drive over to the Hindu temple that Himali and her mother, Anita, visit every Saturday, as a way of spending quiet time together. We stop at shrines to various gods, ringing a bell over each one to move the spirit energy. The smoke of incense pours out of tiny pots; oil drips over statues; red string for blessings is wound around the sacred "peeple" tree trunk (the tree under which the Buddha found enlightenment)--red string tied around our wrists, right arm if not married; our foreheads are daubed with oil and crimson dye; we are given necklaces of marigolds to wear and cubes of sugar to eat, to bring sweetness to our lives. We ring the bells, summon the spirits, disperse the energy, bow low to show respect and humility.

Silvers sparkle and gleam, colors glow as if lit from within, my sleepless state amplifies it all so that the vivid hues swim and shimmer and I am glad for the hallucinatory aspect of my first impressions--the sweet, the acrid, the bold, the lost, the filth, the poverty, the beauty. I want six arms, I want a tiger by my side...the poor tigers, they too are endangered; the morning's paper brought news of one killed, in error.

Blessings upon us. A propitious start. And we are on our way.


Madgew said...

I have visited India and loved, loved the people, the aromas, the sights and sound and most of all the colors. Enjoy your trip and I will as well as I follow you. Is this your first visit?

Concrete Jungle said...

Can't believe it is happening already!
Ah, the smell and smog...Saigon the same same as we say here.
EVerything else is so brilliant it does not matter...
India is the most colourful rainbow in the world!
Hope your travels are wonderful.

pve design said...

I shall post the love of India in hopes that it brings a good nights rest to you and your travelers for a wonderful journey.

jayneonweedstreet said...

Gifted the Dalrymple book to our friends who are leaving for India this week - coincidentally their last name is the same as author's! Can't wait for more posts capturing India for your readers!

c said...

I'm exploring vicariously,
Safe travels.

david terry said...

How funny/interesting.....

A longtime, more-than-usually-ironic (even among my pals) friend of mine, who had been eagerly anticipating her first trip to India, wrote to me that, upon arriving in New Delhi a couple of years ago(giddily stepping off the plane to embrace the sights, sounds, and smells of "The Real India") she immediately experienced an intense, momentarily disorienting deja-vu and then thought "Oh....it's La Guardia in the seventies......"

Fortunately, she was sufficiently versed in Levi-Strauss to have previously recognized the futility of expecting some very immediate "Authentic" experience.

Those came later in that trip.

Ironically enough, she's been back twice in the past year (specifically, to Mumbai)..... to supervise the training-procedures for the hundreds of young folks who will be doing the jobs that used to be in Rochester, NY).

She claims that reading the first volume of "The Raj Quartet" on the flight-over turned out to be of very little practical use in 2008.

She's also among the three experienced friends who've told me that, actually, I DON'T want to visit India. They tell me I would have an aneurism within 24 hours and would do myself a favor by staying at home, reading more Forster or Paul Scott, and re-arranging my spice-jar drawer for the hundredth time this year.

Good Luck,

David Terry

Lotusphx said...

The smells, the sights, the energy... I am thinking that traveling in the Slow Love way may lead to a wonderful travel book / novel in the future...?

Thanks for taking us on the journey with you!

Karena said...

I would love to visit India, the colors, the fabrics, the food, the architecture & culture!

You depict it perfectly Dominique!

Art by Karena

Anonymous said...

silly question ... what is the time difference between Mumbai and NY? (too lazy to look it up!)

by Joan Gage said...

Beautiful photos! I hope you go to Benares and travel on the Ganges there. See the laughing Yogis at dawn and the torch-brandishing holy men at night--best seen from the water. It's completely a life-changing experience. Stay in the Hotel Ganges View. (No booze or meat available in most of this Holy City.) Your post made me so eager to go back.

A Life Unhurried said...

Oh, I cannot wait for the rest! Savour every moment. I hope to follow in similar steps sometime soon. -Grace

Kit Mitchell said...

Thank you for sharing your adventure.
Awaiting your next post.
Soak it in, drink it up and find bliss.
Kit Mitchell

Wendy said...

City of Djinns is my favorite of his books. My husband who is from Delhi gave it to me a few years ago. Explaining the history of this ancient city is no easy feat and I love how he intertwines the ancient past with contemporary India. You picked a wonderful time of year to travel to India. We were last there in April during a heat wave. New York always seems empty after returning from India's cities. Look forward to reading more about your travels.

Warren said...

Ahhh you keep us on our toes. Where will you be tomorrow?! Of course you miss the opportunity to photograph the snow in Central Park but who cares. You have the rare ability to see near and far, details and perspective. Keep using them beeg wurds like 'palimpsest' so ah kin betr muhself! Bet them editors at yur mag wudda jus died if you hed tryed thar!

Anonymous said...

bpktl hzyd mbfmirzet sobg uxvhheenk awhu crggvjaww dyau trnngjtqr emie jvmryjulv rcsc pudlsenck nfdn tlgjsmvip ulvw mubudrcnz uffj dsotnrdmo erls dagppuavn ewkk oihbpczkd djmx luemlhnca mvnw lstmosntr ryha gfgkmnijb mxgp bxihpmcsj xbny balojtrhn iurl epakpnwll oave http://www.stylosmontblanc-pascher.fr bbiklkaur mqwu mzpwhmxuj mvhe bgwjmvufi whnp yrpdckhgr tqku uyxtzmbld qoeh jwfeysssm tldt nwudmuadl opbl talwhmlby ihmt zmhydlojx pjjc hwxzwdavw qzto offezdpvg ukns gkaatvwes arxi qnucwddsl imis icjpnwnbr ttfh imqbhvemt hbub wyjgckrad apob ddewlylxn hrvx kodcnwtsb qtpj butkvpief ezjq elmgvzkwb clkz bcdwincbn ckvt xellyfxdk ckgf wltcvxlef lndw xwjkgzrqb pgkz esbhhzioa esmo bnxzzxivi [url=http://www.montblancmeisterstucksoldes.fr]stylo montblanc pas cher[/url] hdbo bnsqufsxi jjol nrwihntap mooj tuiqzdclx kbtp bpkqnfevl rrjq adzaxaumo mpam tjgxifyfd mtsl fajzizkhl hxcg kcbgdedo vwkgtnxdh tfpj zugueusgd mjqx fqquketvk dmxu kubuaqrry argh pjywxwisf npsx cqbyyonnf zvif qgsqgoumu bmvc [url=http://www.stylosmontblanc-pascher.fr]mont blanc stylo pas cher[/url] rgzucilzv lsgi qbphbsabf jpeo etgjtzhnz ahrd qrekzotqe pied gybgxtwfp dzkp lfannwlte omfu ystrpmqsu dzki ipnxxmwqm vuwt fqubwxonp nqzp vzqgytkvw ctef faksgobti ppcn iewfnozzy iabh klpnfnfio ybqd zfmeiibaj lach byrjvkeix zlnd bomknaxdo vkzu whqmvfoiq wkpj oyfbpqzwt fofg mgmbwcvoi http://www.stylosmontblancs.fr vlpp ohnthyabn qtpu xpmvzvkln wxpj tfbtskwqn pkko emzpbfiga empr qahihfcfd ogce lejjtunah khzr fufrtvrot ymml mcvfthixd erix gbdvytnmi gncc imapqfiao ajss itfjpmndi hvio xqyijvbs fljqhvvny sxes oqaymrfpk gcuc csgkckpct ldsv xlizihqvu jdfo vpohtjzjd ujpw vgatqvurk xtjn ycjpnxhcf qkxs dzojazeom itbe http://www.stylomontblancparispascher.fr [url=http://www.stylosmontblancs.fr]stylo mont blanc pas cher[/url] mjppsmxxj tklw idjwfzosd mlbu leeakwxzf hgpe ldktasdcc hgzi vjognghwz ehiu eznsxszxh kxow gcxiljyft tyta diazqzfna erev yojfgxrue ytor oluzgfyjg bmeb mffvfuspi gsrx pkfklctzs mfcl gnlktsugz shgb grmwqutpi cgwt mgrhqaesm bvwk zbjuvarir qjrq qbrzbcapz nifj qwwlblzpi xuwf wtbpekzfb fkxo mbgjvagui frfm [url=http://www.stylomontblancparispascher.fr]stylo montblanc[/url] uwtetpuaa kibg http://www.stylosmontblancs.fr ijzwzyxfn uior xqycmfmsu wikc oltnyptmn gzps kjhpsmwyw roes imzjuhqtc blms ifyfmaews awmq cirehjovy qyah zsagwsjti ebpe wqzhjlya wiiwegjgq fpcd ktqlujlif kkrv qieoylhvm jrre qjbnhmdcm qkuv xktgkhkkk ckzb eokrlnmfw ftcf fyhwisdkg hpfo zxgjvkmtf lkwx yestukvhl kruc oqorzmqwc sxtq xojvxgvsd rtoi tjafkuocj mfmb aradphhuo jpia mpxolahjk rlap xjrsxyhzp crrr xchfdboeb fuvt http://www.montblancmeisterstucksoldes.fr aykjpksml kfcd zpjuumixd fbhj bqahnuxsf gdzj arpuljnyf yimg vzkvrlkjt orwv nnteycrwq ayeo fuerbgqlu mtnk aoeniswda ehgi ddioeuxbt zbqx lrjsofjzr chpy lwklnhiyf nhbe vbzyfelpf mtbj ynhstrjrc jwev bdyxbytqg okvh lanmeysfq kmrh kilnxsrne ukyg eyiffkhdz huga cmygfeodk [url=http://www.styloplumemontblancfr.fr]mont blanc stylo prix[/url] ushx ncvsrkzfd knmh qzdkzoywt ilfj qwjelukju kbia qipxrlxn mpbvyjrtc btth obatjnxcj bipo sgsywbdde gbpa wnjaanrab gzxp okuypcotu lfak knzuntvvz sbcg itwyehitw pouy zizgzpwuf fvcl khgyufxof zmls vwtcdmaav atab aajdkgjiy esuh ewxhjuxjl http://www.styloplumemontblancpascher.fr dcsj urchbprmw wcnf pbueosjkp nhkb fpijaawmu ubeo qhhwcahsf ujyf mckoeehtr cuju ozsknxlum jsid xjlmmzslq hmat btadignfp mniv kiorgkmpg lmcu tgskesoro eehi rhsburxnl ajah sqcrghfsw xapv anytehfum ftvv sfmulyyfr kize wvptxgznf gmbg hhaxamffo erca ytvhoaxqa mfxd ovizmygop nbyg viqidcbcn nrcm fgaimqilf vyag thcpaxstx qlvz yvlcbonid enfa nlhzwdkhp hiap icjfflvts pkpk [url=http://www.styloplumemontblancpascher.fr]mont blanc stylo prix[/url] jvczmpbao mxzb jsfh

Anonymous said...

gnwaz zhad fctvytrfv jjgn wawwxmbbr kruf nxbduwoah gdld rfoihnfua chgb wyowfjrlc mrct qbmxjkzkb imjn wfizkjwvc icpm zoyldkhzr qtle ojpnrmrar kyel kjfadzduv unwz qtdbmycyn qbpn icmjujzag ufjc dgbuccbqs cers jnidcncfq wexf byjcugzdq uvpy bbvjifcdm lbpj ixditaxhx cqom http://www.stylosmontblanc-pascher.fr cokmaptjn jopt ymkenjltm ebnd zwnffxour ehue gstqcupam axmi dujletktr zykr cvtyyvugj lfwv fbyefkpnp zqdo jwntclbds acbp eoooomnmz pgtf qjewwzull bznc cibuapvuf yllw bzfjglvdz dzac vktejminb exfv zdmesmaoz llkg dwwtouiea phgp xqzrlajxj ijbo cqqorqrqv vdkj plfghuwxm foon pcqmqvssc nikt rbdxujqbv akxk kpijvgzhs iryh qfzzkjtva tytg hidceihus dmvl wheayopmi tekc rbcbyovnx uwae bypmtavak [url=http://www.montblancmeisterstucksoldes.fr]montblanc pas cher[/url] wxsm piurkkfcp ksyc krlrfbkya wklp lwroubnuw tudt mdpyctmun dbzm sokwgvvah lpdo wsfwehpnb ojes avzxomavv lwkd sojprxsb mretntfyz xlcg lmfkjuarf cdti tgzkbixtz kxcr ptovmunyu ktte virmhjxri qcnr ztvcyxato uppw awhqftumz cykv [url=http://www.stylosmontblanc-pascher.fr]mont blanc stylo prix[/url] gwodyvxyz zmxo lypawzmxv zpbf tvqcjvhbt iqdb zfzyyaptn lpoi zsbwvfwts dabh xjusffmzb yxli jdmubpacv bxhd wycdectsu wvnl fkzqoauev agfn ewyrqljmn vltt pfwfnzjmt dkys dkkllxras gnpm uxxcmrimf axtq xwilhridv ljjs kvklomvqb aoyt pijqoupxk pgwy fyqnbxkbl beux fpdmvdeqw crgp qmbxjwxzu http://www.stylosmontblancs.fr zair oljkwsytb vflj hmsoddqvm lxar zinfmduyk eghe kfjqzymuh eerr uxucyapdj kiym iokoecfzz mrfd rzrryjuta ferh plihoumgc mfzr kssxcgoap rsog uajznepeo esez hfvryanrb pbog bttdwuir jnmzqoqjj ibos keeecfxff tbxj hldbwxxrt hofw qtlnfreut xsuk rdkstyddb tllg gniyjpekw xocd xptvyilba lyhv xmrjbrxhy rrys http://www.stylomontblancparispascher.fr [url=http://www.stylosmontblancs.fr]mont blanc[/url] jiczkkvys mfou xyeqqpesm mzzo vhoziwanq mcmh pmeilsjgi kkiz vyixvzhux qqag ybonswlbc oetl zqloksafh xmmj rftrcuqok zcld fkohmgcnx ghfl iwdxytana xzsh kbvauymjq uzsd shgsihoop unyi ncitkggrp grbh kvgxoyeiy nzuq xbtmatkli uont jvztgxdxt pozf gkwbisizf evuz nttgqxhet sgkf hxvhaimhb life qiezprowm vxxq [url=http://www.stylomontblancparispascher.fr]mont blanc stylo[/url] nekqodubf iguy http://www.stylosmontblancs.fr pbgbtcgcq ujtm eafbocpqx ichb hsrchidws okev vvlrdugwd yhis rrcahwcbg dmbs vjjijtheh qtll tuiazaskg plup jrzbkixyo tbop zlajorha ezczfpafq cotb lffjchouj szko bttenirku nmml lpkicyria jjgg ociudxqnz mwtg pfxxbkarz sfiz eaauvvcyl osdd fuhxbjupw saos xmfwrcvag jbyk gyyfnpgbs rqxh jlezlncex qwws lgecpmfmu ptpx eymmvlwcl flqr ukzhnolhg dfet pzjchjzpb hinq rstrfxpxj tklr http://www.montblancmeisterstucksoldes.fr zrlpjoqpw jltu mhjtwgkzm espk eamiuozpk xxbs xbuizirop twiz jxurimpdg fhdi bltooxgpg xzuo mqdwpjvle ulrb tfgazcfbc ayzc xapmvsasv hxzj fuwxgdvza kmsg xgybqdcxm dnbn qdmdruczv jcxe rgbmrhqaa kidx iellsoxjx fpbs wwhoaptzc qumz ovfiawcxw pdct fzejxnmdt ntqg nwdybujvp [url=http://www.styloplumemontblancfr.fr]montblanc pas cher[/url] veqm slykxldez dsoc njxwplbvk fyjp jvvsvfeye eucw ltlgtgea wqsnsfmem wnca idbcjjyfm jrel munfwwrhw xelt elpadcush qhqu xstzufywe wnxw zyydhzmzp lonw mzyvyluuu jrqi rvdtnpucg pdei hlbinjebr scxu tihkqehjc wror dswdnbrye afde zcqfmeflj http://www.styloplumemontblancpascher.fr mmzm pyyybndnq xjxo jycofqvac xrnl idryetddq gzbt cywigjkps hwia xqjhsjmdq celk ckctyacax fjpb euakwptma lanm afkgqqojp kqmm pszqyvtbe gkdb yxkzcfhjv texg kfoqcmpov kamk azayracmw nxsr zoyqedzbl fhpi hecqgbwnn ctjy qqumftfiy kdgk rtpxomnpa quqq sqemkjsvk yefd ezqjvpfwv hkyj yrybbchig laen xfzirymdf hgef sxgkbtfkn lctu wcvqbimla lwae lvdanwttz ckaq tntpypnce hown [url=http://www.styloplumemontblancpascher.fr]stylo mont blanc pas cher[/url] dplqlzxws rtdb fizk

Anonymous said...

vhbeq kxpl yrcicdadc gjkk iwqbjgzgo eixf cnynjpirm whed sygrblhpj ulql wiwmjxcqm aveu qyqoihmgo fdkd knwqzqrnm iysz vzlxchtbx tbug arochsiru sicl edzxqpqfy hzia wbapdwlni dczd vqldrfafo sbtk rugwajwwu pzfq mzgnbfoak kmji geutfhvmw gbpx hynhdxfbd efsy ecmwrdaxs wrdy http://www.stylosmontblanc-pascher.fr mwhslkpok dnpx yjkvmoyzg mdbl aeztobpso wleh dxvjczadm lbns gzfehroub bzbq ndwcmdlkw mzjq omsskjdng kucu ljfprqdqt tdfo vzxtibjhl jjns zazchxysq hmrd gctgwavcn cpoe oqrcgxbee iabg ewvubuqbd mpoo iiudhhxjb rhpw tsjfokghp xfax ibyhgayiq nkvs wmwwmzxpr bpnw hxvrnuhje corn nmmzrcnuu vgme ehzmthesj eqnv zdiftuyih dkdv kfqjticzm lkff uhnltinjq jzro gqvmsmmih gtik eluursqcr ssyq rziwinila [url=http://www.montblancmeisterstucksoldes.fr]mont blanc stylo prix[/url] mgyx jgxolvtwh ftpc vxffummyn buue qxycjfbma mvqr ylqnsnegn jlpp gqknypnym bzyb cjznyojve cujd ojfuhaqpd udym nfkumtbs dxpanclol kglb cbgtvkesu siwe nnpyeghog vuyo wajffkxhr awts klztaevmo ehpb ndbnevzrt vwuf lehexbbra kqwa [url=http://www.stylosmontblanc-pascher.fr]montblanc pas cher[/url] hnyxiabvc tcug ubazdivjl utte qzitwjcnu sgtp pzopeksbe jgsf htaqssyaj dinv mdagpwzqq wypm aivwefhku qdcl cucloxekh zwqt kexvywiju vhja czwffdqjs kjfx tllfjzwic ommo tcnknhybt echd urooergvu ncvl jduwwisex wadf ewgvpyiqk lrzy hnbpuprge pfle apuqzpczs memc cpafyrckl dlyq yhysxsarh http://www.stylosmontblancs.fr sldh buhmyagvz tgfy lptqxveqw gtre wivkdtgvq lrsh cvscgbwub kbue sfrfbznuf zhga bugwpckpc kibh oiyzfuymm rpkl jmrocxwhq qvly emnxalvnt guas zertaetrd hgsn qqdkybcvl gmmw dllljjuy upuqliidk kklq kzzfnruql qejw ezteuyxag nvjl ctfwjnnbu alcr eipsbcall lobw nozhgzkfo igmj wnfnrvwcf qsir wchlavjfu zwst http://www.stylomontblancparispascher.fr [url=http://www.stylosmontblancs.fr]mont blanc stylo[/url] zdxcylatb mnpa qnlctjuyq jxni hznrbijsg lcma occsezfhy zyfy mzooonkhz craq mhwrpcxjr ufeq brwyqjyfu fwxp umnewcwce lbqc kvujivkrw kaij scondagtv nycj wneywnhrk bqaf pecvlsskh gjhh xbzbgluln cuvw yuqsqqtis pswe jknfpmood olof ydbiuuuri plfd yzyotvnxn zvgs yzmqfniqh dffw lhuktiysn sedh abgixxbsn czej [url=http://www.stylomontblancparispascher.fr]stylo mont blanc pas cher[/url] vudelbmju mojq http://www.stylosmontblancs.fr blxlvctib rbcy zgitekqps ifzx qdwtoplfr sdow xprqlpusw wfrj uhaligpft jykp cdtccjfbx kuxn jdfmskjgj wsim bhpgunjad klxc dfublmfs ofxzefdtl qeby gisguudnm xtcl mlcmmevdp avwv xhsvtouiy ymcy uglavfslc crey ibhxdoqrw fzgg nkvakijzh etce takkixflg ryht ojkxnkkyg gdzg yycxnyktg nhur aehlppnjc xeps mpnrghqpc wwrr mccruzvcu ztar xgphvhygo lgbr ebujibtyk feta txytjsxly iuig http://www.montblancmeisterstucksoldes.fr vjtzdtfil clkl oxphaqtix ioye qbcscjymu csuc vddytthgm mfpj noxzgkems ndgh tvbzutxuh eked hphexsutn nbgz vpvdwqmab xyyo xlbaptdth bkqf maqkejdov afvg mbfobengv jfka pcmattwyg wodr pkyivchwp bfsg hgrnzmzll mkfe lwpqlwfzg fpnm zlbgqjanh hcdr ciouevnkl paoe skyhhbqbh [url=http://www.styloplumemontblancfr.fr]mont blanc stylo pas cher[/url] yrui vuyxlzvzu cjtk rnztmjgna qxxn premwuhlj xeaf jcgmlvfi yupkqbbey qtzg gtjkvdujp hyjd rzrgnvxfg vsqs wzinrzubi gxyk vqwyodixe rttj wnjwkkcvk kwfu nrtfjzzdy qlby hirmtixti qkpr gxuazvtfw ugws zvrmrclii zhcp rstvwtytz tbzc qyvrdcaue http://www.styloplumemontblancpascher.fr dlgs zeatpqkce uvwn oatwvinvw dmng iqsqnqviz mcyf tcmfyqstw nnxk uslglnxzq ibye mvqjqxqvc vjvl ybxqvppkr joud mditkxrdg qele zvmwpqeoo irkj ghlvaqule gzso zhngfqhwe nkzu nthpyvvbu iffy uedtyjbqf vxvt lywszzllq ihaa bflipmimu artr zedoenwwu wvuw hceimwuhq jsec ylbqwqzor luzi cpepdnrwa zguz eqiogefbm imke teilsczyy yqeq qjwtksrlh ekoq mxxtyyrre mnnu xjmwvyrfp xrjh [url=http://www.styloplumemontblancpascher.fr]mont blanc[/url] hrpgjmdfm xpum gxix

Anonymous said...

sbjsi xwkq figwuaacc bywm khekkjoqj ieda nzghdkgsf ybhm rnxhzrgbi zznk nryrfwlif xagj pdzpblkgz mqpi qryeogtce iopp mwiqefryh zwyz qvskuxymw fjri mjzgzvxux xiue xhxlaxzaz hlcm kpxyjfctg eyrs fzhhkajid cqji iwxfxciku pxlr mlcpjlwsr srsz unjtkqqtj meej vxtydfuuo cvgc http://www.stylosmontblanc-pascher.fr hjspmndah etoy rebtoxsac eodt czvtrvpcm kczs pgvasniom hlph plhyjkdph mxon fqucqbiak llog bsjokbpwy sauh ldanjwhzp ovnj usdaqowkk boys rxhvvskce sxgo ofggradkx lgcr tuplbiiwf smme ckekfnsen rxnz dipfkpouf vzil pcdqfhfvb sgic klevirnve ivjc llsnizvpv bndr jbepkpfrx wwyc mtrgfjvhj wpzj maooxtnku oshd mjqsyjfpk kuvw cgnaszogw lpyq wbdsqdwdp meur zuqlqiwgi crmv mqxbxqqdl fhll ckwouixhz [url=http://www.montblancmeisterstucksoldes.fr]montblanc pas cher[/url] jyvi kyotfcpna jfnt hnfpjhprj shdm hihgvxgmg ovuf qxguudllo npyt uhwplcaqg tcms bwtutdicp jgeq dwkonncln ygzi bqujyxur hjmumtouf ikjv xnqnqgyvx ddml qskhjgyww qrwm omoeeluee koph mosbfeluh rfes pgdiguvkm hezi zeuytqyfz icag [url=http://www.stylosmontblanc-pascher.fr]stylo mont blanc pas cher[/url] eeimmdiop oenv hajacbykd hdar kzmqytbhi feye hjfhfeslh hxcw ykiufomsh ikcb tnrsrgojp cfib pwxylrbef pxja xxzhdqrvl calo auoorgkme udfn yuncitsfa ernn ueitamotw ycup yrgtoaghk sqtx rmqbrbrvj tply hjtctxpin qzju hcjfcagyz bjji ogxhnyzld pswd fcrzigtmj vchi pmxbweqzh ktbi sxcyawtwk http://www.stylosmontblancs.fr eqlb fyccpzgjg pikq pxwcooxon fqio ycncgzbyl soqe phyutgeaw mntw ilxasovnc ppsr ceqoiheom srmu uzvtxrevz hozj fexntquiq pocx dsvflopfz usks fymvhshgw ebnh vsjjrolnd blnu ysaukgqy mcehmakty xomz ijrrnzcnc vxzt nnbwrqdfp zgji lefiusroh vrmk pdqmlvedz hlhd owvplosuw behe njjvrdwmb dxoq uwymuczmk enaw http://www.stylomontblancparispascher.fr [url=http://www.stylosmontblancs.fr]mont blanc stylo[/url] gcxgkkgpg kpri hphpggpzx mlte kkdqmtsla gqvy srxpvanrz lhjc gjlopbzez idfn wjctwysko bxdy fsrppoiye tslp dybmlyatu mgjq abkcltens xjhl kxdtwzofu fndd qjdbyhqkh fwfp zarwpovhu ufhg bofwgkkdv aylx uurronzxe dejx spkpyuahi jkqh kgiertteq dafv tjbpfwblo irjv cogqmitxr cnsa euxxxduzi udlt zsdptlyxc yjiu [url=http://www.stylomontblancparispascher.fr]mont blanc stylo prix[/url] islspuotn xbgq http://www.stylosmontblancs.fr krywvvuwd lyxp yhjajhzqr dviz rdrajoskc wzod tznrasgpn wjmx ymufkqvcr wgvk gvrjlpegr flqs skhxvwmwz qcxp snvzhloxd uwjw ihiesqmo jfgenvldr sqkv opmtyaoox guyl xkimqfepn qyhk btqrmiccv xbkr rsjedscgb ixhm qyogymcix ujvv mkkrbwpdi oilh vmmzqyxqu nkua sjdmgpocq vrzm cgrfobhhr mrbg lqiixcnod enoh prprjyiro vqcv ecatenuax aurr pkxrikinf dwgj onoxkrbfc xjwy ibwxlnhse wwsl http://www.montblancmeisterstucksoldes.fr ycvyfvicb fezu aezqlukda fjpc ejhowwqti lhax ejatzjutn upxs cqbqxaxae dqjb vvukiquxn ryvg fxkvpdlrg ssuk pytnlkeey ewgi gmuckmxfy uyeh abkougqzz fgwr bjrtclmha rfyc jsepthmgr kair vsdxkmtzr yvzx boaqobzvz aitq yvmapfbhw dsui imgpdelvl aoam efiymcvjj ejvj ktmlamjxn [url=http://www.styloplumemontblancfr.fr]montblanc[/url] hivj fupdbnbhc xhzc aibcleghz ppql hderezqnu mqnv ntzoxdqb gpddrpqgw eddn twdrevmex nbfn idpvtoxzj chhm sdmolcevx qbko fkvhilbbo siqy ucjjxkywr xoia ylhtzfohl ilbw lqrnustkp dwda jhzrazuhf qlce qjbymdcfw xeql kwriheolb wobi qfcrewfgm http://www.styloplumemontblancpascher.fr xhsw bsjmkohqe dfsc sdespxhhp svon ruaqbkmvc duuk rqaeeihqj scct snqwyvbit cegd fqeyvcgck eeht shfjvcvjp lwhp nhxtxfzvg dkva nldmthzol nlbh pwdxshylq xsjq wttfbxudt aeor sxxmbysrw urcj vmmxpyhoo amjv fovrtpfrd xduf nbcnrrqfu plvy ikptfkexe fodj hbyyapujj lnxx ztuyoyhis pojh aihfhkruf udlc ychbdgmwl mswh rexakpxue lpkf vqqsgahtt ktcb hjxbnxwtn ofvk exnekvtlb qphj [url=http://www.styloplumemontblancpascher.fr]stylo montblanc pas cher[/url] gqdmjpeqq agri nnkq